Berwick upon Tweed

Surrounded by Elizabethan city walls built to stave off the Scots, the smart border town of Berwick has been fought over for centuries. And no wonder. As you cross the River Tweed by East Coast train, it’s easy to fall under the spell of its natural.

Our top attraction

Get under the skin of a simple English infantryman at the Berwick-Upon-Tweed Barracks and Main Guard. This superb historic museum puts context to the 13 times (count ’em) that Berwick has changed hands between the English and the Scots. Hear the stories of how kings and lairds have fought bloody battles to own this hugely wealthy commercial hub. For life beyond the military, admire the art and historical displays at the Berwick Borough Museum within the Barracks complex.

Best for nightlife

Join in the evening merriment that takes place mainly within the walls of the old town. Take your pick from the constantly changing cask ales in cosy traditional pubs.

Best for dining

Feast on fresh Craster kippers and a thick Alnwick stew and finish with a singing hinnie (scone) for dessert at delis, cafes and restaurants in and around Castlegate and Marygate.

Best for shopping

Potter around the quirky little bookshops and antique stores in central Bridge Street and West Street, where the goods often spill out on to the cobbled pavement out front.